You can read about the entire Clifton line here, but in this review we will focus on the 10055 Complete Calendar. This 43mm wide stainless steel watch measures 12.5mm thick, with a nicely wearable 50mm lug to lug length. As its name suggests, the 10055 offers a triple calendar display with a small window for the day and month and a pointer hand for the date display, which references a 31 day track around the edge of the dial. Keeping with the traditional design, we also see a moon phase display above six o'clock. While the 10055 version is characterized by a silver dial with gold markers and hands, it is worth noting that the dial is not simply silver but appears, in some light, to be creamy or even slightly gold-tone. The coloring of the dial along with the triple date and moon phase really give you the wrist presence of a vintage watch combined with the case size of a modern piece. While I really like this dial version because of its traditional vibe, it would be a hard choice between this one and the 10057 which sports a metallic blue dial with silver hands and markers.
Listen to the HourTime Show watch podcast episode 127 here.
The front sapphire crystal of the watch is no longer smoked and offers a clearer view of the gears, that have now been "circus colored" in blue and orange. Cheeky! Also, the Only Watch auction is about supporting children, which ties into the fun gaming theme of the piece. Children who love 0,000 watches that is. On the sides of the watch are two metal cages with a ball that moves up and down (magnetically) along a lume painted strip to indicate the hours (on the left) and the minutes (on the right). The balls can be jerked free, only to reattach to their magnetic points. The original X-Trem-1 watches contained the balls in small sapphire tubes. Creating a magnetic environment that did not affect the movement itself was challenging for sure.
There will likely be a few versions of the H1. This is the steel model with a really lovely metallic blue dial. I wouldn't have thought that a bright green trimmed minutes hand would have worked, but it does. The 44mm wide case is typical Hydroscaph with its unique design and patented rotating bezel locking system (that unfolds like a little winding key). The crown design appears to be new and is rather interesting.
A few years later, Baume et Mercier began to change. The brand started to produce solely elegant watches after models like the Capeland, Riviera, and Hampton stopped being part of the collection. Instead, we saw things like the Classima and William Baume ranges. The name of the brand also changed from "Baume et Mercier" to the English "Baume & Mercier," though the website still bears the older name. We then saw the return of the Hampton collection into something still square but more dressy, and finally a new version of the Capeland.
Longines will soon release these two vintage inspired watches that are lovely and affordable examples of classic sport timing timepieces. The watches are the Telemeter Chronograph and Tachymeter Chronograph. What makes them different? The dials, that's pretty much it. Each of these designs are faces we have seen before in the past, rendered here nicely in what is in my opinion an affordable package.
ABTW: The last thing that I would like to ask you is about the distant future: the majority of high-end watch making manufacturers are several decades, or even centuries old: I wonder, can you imagine MB&F or something that says MB&F on it 150 or 200 years from now?
In addition to the Vintage WW1 Argentium watches is another curious timepiece, The Bell & Ross Vintage PW1 Argentium. This is a Bell & Ross pocket watch minute repeater in Argentium. The PW1 is an existing pocket watch by Bell & Ross that we covered here. The Vintage PW1 Argentium (aka Vintage PW1 Repetition Minutes) builds on that model in a few ways. First, it is much more thick and made from an Argentium case that is 49mm wide. The caseback also opens up like a traditional pocket watch to see the movement. Last, it has a five minute repeater complication.
The Kendrick case is water resistant to 100 meters and has a sapphire crystal. The rear-mounted exhibition window is mineral crystal - probably because of its non-round shape. Ordering sapphire crystals in non-round shapes gets very expensive. Inside the watch is a SWISS ETA 2824 automatic movement, which is the same as the Xetum Stinson models.
Since beginning to produce watches under his own name, he has continued to push boundaries with creations that allow the owner to play baccarat and black jack, or that merge movements with their traditional enemy - magnets - to tell the time with floating ball-bearings.
The Shinola name itself is not a new one, but unless you served in Bastogne or Guadalcanal you probably haven’t heard of it. The brand is known (at least, to The Greatest Generation) as a manufacturer of wax-based shoe polish in the first half of the 20th century, which was also supplied to soldiers during the Second World War. Long since defunct, the original brand exists now only as the butt of a colloquialism coined by GIs during WWII – “You Don’t Know Shit from Shinola.”
The case is a sort of mish-mash of Panerai and diver watch aesthetics, but is really neither. While the watch case is water resistant to 200 meters, the bezel does not rotate, nor is there luminant for diving. Having said that, the piece is durable, and the 44mm wide steel case with black coating is very sporty in appearance. Over the dial is a sapphire crystal and the case is 15mm thick. It wears a bit large, but with the steeply curved lugs, the watch is quite comfortable.
IWC likes to focus each year on one of its watch families. While we now know that 2013 is the year of the Ingénieur, with various models already announced, last year was the year of the Pilot. With that came various small changes and updates to its iconic Big Pilot, Mark XVII, Top Gun, and Spitfire series, as well as a new perpetual calendar Big Pilot with ceramic case, and a new Pilot Chronograph that includes a newly developed in-house chronograph movement. What may have been lost to some was the introduction of a brand new IWC Pilot Worldtimer that inherits many of the characteristic style and design of the IWC pilot line. However, as the name suggests, this new model adds an interesting world time complication which is especially useful to those, like me, working with a global team of developers on projects with tight schedules requiring frequent phone calls as well as managing tasks and deadlines that all need to be synchronized…
Rolex watches are perhaps the finest mass-produced industrial timepiece on the planet. They may actually be the finest mass-produced anything. And by mass-produced, I mean in terms of watch brand production volumes which for watches at the Rolex price point is most always less than one million watches per year.